Monday, March 9, 2009

My Top 5 Seed Starting Problems

When you live somewhere with a short growing season or you want to grow a plant you can't pick up at the local nursery, starting plants indoors can be a worthwhile adventure. However, I'll be honest with you - I think it's MUCH easier to grow plants outside!

Here are the top five problems I've run into when starting seeds indoors, as well as some suggestions for what might help. This is by no means a complete list of problems or solutions, so don't be afraid to try something else - it might work!

Problem #1: Tall, skinny, floppy seedlings.

This is called etiolation - it's caused when the plants stretch for the light. You will notice that they can lean over very quickly - an hour or two is all that it takes. Once they have stretched out, you can't shrink them back, so address the problem as soon as you notice it!

Solutions:
  • Rotating your plants so a different side faces the window each day.
  • Try placing them in a brighter window (if you have one).
  • Set a fan so that it blows gently on the seedlings. This will encourage shorter, stockier growth. Just remember to water them more often if you are using a fan...it really dries out the soil!
  • Install growing lights or build a nice greenhouse in your backyard if you have bunch of money that needs spending.
Problem #2: White, fuzzy mold growing on the pots or soil.

Some molds are parasitic and will attack your plants, others are saprophytes and just decompose dead organic matter (like bark, and peat moss in potting mix). You really don't want mold to grow on your pots, just in case it is the plant attacking type!

Solutions:
  • Scrape off any mold that you can remove without damaging your little plants.
  • Discard any pots that are completely overrun. Toss the soil too. You don't want to reuse moldy soil. If you have plastic pots that you want to reuse, sanitize them with bleach.
  • Space the pots farther apart and use a fan so you have better air circulation.
  • Keep the affected pots away from the non-moldy ones!
  • Water from the bottom, instead of the top. Just set your pots in the water and let them absorb it through their drainage holes. Then place them in dry solid or mesh flats.
  • Try a chamomile tea drench. I did it last year and it worked. I steeped some tea, let it cool, and watered everything with it (from the top, since that where most of the mold was). I did this a couple of times.
  • Sprinkle ground cinnamon all around the soil. I did this in combination with the tea drench...it smelled very nice!
  • There are some chemical drenches you can buy...but I don't use them. I mean, I'm growing plants I'll eventually eat, and I'm raising them in my kitchen and livingroom!
Problem #3: Plants seem wilty, but the soil isn't dry

This would be root rot. It's caused by overwatering and/or poor drainage. The roots actually rot off, then the plant wilts because it can't take up water. This problem usually isn't noticed until it's too late to save the plant, so it's best to prevent it.

Solutions:
  • Give the plant a very gentle tug. If it comes out of the soil, throw it away. If it has enough roots to offer some resistance, let the soil dry and be careful not to overwater the plant. It might perk up, or it might limp along. If it's just limping, I'd put it out of its misery and try again.
  • Don't water until the soil is dry or the plants start to feel less turgid (full of water). Please don't wait until they are wilted over, that isn't good either. With a little practice, you'll be able to tell which pots need watering just by lifting them - if they are all the same size and are filled with the same mix, the light ones need a drink and the heavy ones don't.
Problem #4: Seedlings just rot off or look pinched off right at the soil.

This is called damping off. It's caused by soil organisms and the right environment (namely warm and probably a little too moist). It can happen to one pot or destroy an entire flat, overnight. This is another one you just have to try to prevent.

Solutions:
  • Use sterile seed starting mix.
  • Water properly.
  • Throw away affected plants. Sanitize pots if reusing.
Problem: Plants look yellow or purple or have yellow leaves with green veins.

These are common signs of nutrient deficiencies.

Solutions:
  • Apply some fertilizer! I like the water soluble types (like miracle gro). Mix it up weaker than directed and apply over the top of the plants. Some will be absorbed right through the leaves, the rest from the soil. You'll want to keep track of when you fertilize so you'll know when to do it again. Follow the label, just remember to mix it weaker, seedlings are sensitive, and watch your plants for signs. You'll be able to see if they still need more. If they look burned, then they've had too much.
  • General yellowing and slower growth, lower leaves die = nitrogen deficiency.
  • Purple or purple tinged leaves, stems, branches = phosphorus deficiency.
  • Yellow leaves with green veins, especially in new growth = iron deficiency.

4 comments:

Rob and Amy said...

wow! The long stringy ones - stretching for light - that's my specialty.

The Artist's Life Experiment said...

I have mold, BUT I have chamomile tea. I think growing indoors is much harder. Thanks so much!

Julie said...

Here's to you for all the great advice-- I will take it! I think you named every single problem I face, so I needed the help!!

Rob and Amy said...

Commercial soap is usually a combination of soap and petroleum based detergent. Sodium tallowate and sodium palmate, for example, are soap made from tallow and palm oil respectively. (cocoate = coconut oil etc.) Sodium laureth sulfate = foaming detergent. The other thing about commercial soap is that they often remove the natural glycerine and sell it for use in other cosmetics. Even if they add it back in, I think it's less and it doesn't feel the same. Glycerine is a humectant, which draws moisture to your skin.
You might be sensitive to the synthetic ingredients in the other soap/lotion. And mine doesn't have those things. The 'superfat' in soap is the % of excess oil in the soap after saponification process is done. A good soap will have at least 5% (mine are about 6.5%). Some oils saponify more readily than others so, if you want to control the type of oil that is left you can discount your oil before you add the lye and then add extra oil at trace. Also, different oils make soap that has different properties. Olive is the undisputed queen of oils in soapmaking. It's very mild and pretty darn hard. Coconut and palm give you those big fluffy bubbles and cocoa butter is conditioning. Too much coconut in your soap can be drying. I could go on and on but those are the ones I use. Played with shea butter - not impressed. Played with castor and safflower - I think they make the soap soft and no one noticed when I stopped using it - except that the bars lasted longer. Jojoba is suppossed to be awesome b/c it's the closest to our skins own oils. I could superfat a batch with that. It's been in my head for a while anyway. As for lotion, if coconut oil helps use it. I prefer straight cocoa butter - if you want to try that I could send some I have, like, a gallon. I had a rough go with my skin last winter when I was pregnant - especially my hands - I used lansinoh. A little goes a long way and sometimes I would use lotion over the top b/c it seemed to help it rub in. Think about it and call me - I HATE, HATE, HATE dry skin - I'd be glad to help any way I can!